The innovative forward sealing Perlick beer faucet with flow control now featuring a push-back creamer. Flow control can help reduce foaming issues no matter what beer line size or length you're using. The push-back creamer feature enables the operator to finish every pour with just the precise amount of foam. Constructed of 304 stainless steel!

More on Perlick's Forward Sealing Design
The #1 feature of Perlick faucets are their forward sealing design. Why is that so important? In an ordinary, rear-sealing faucet, the entire faucet must drain out of beer. There is actually a pin hole in the back of an ordinary faucet that allows beer to drain out. Because beer drains from the entire faucet the faucet remains sticky and is prone to contamination from the left over residue. The Perlick faucet, with its forward sealing design, only has beer drain from the short 1" nozzle section. This allows it to always operate smoothly (even when it was not cleaned between uses) and greatly reduces contamination.

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Please note: In order for the push-back creamer to function properly, you must avoid overtightening the tap ferrule. If you're unable to push-back on the faucet lever, check that there's enough room between the tap ferrule and the friction bonnet and back off the tap ferrule as needed.

 

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Darrell A.
flows fine creamer works good

flow from faucet is great creamer works well but takes a bit of getting used to. I wish they were easier to clean

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Scott G.
Foam is grand

Replaced my NB faucets with these last weekend. I'm so happy to be able to pull a handle with no sticking AND be able to top off a nice stout with a cap of creamy foam. If I could dream up anything negative to say it would be that I have to get used to the light trigger pull of the faucet.

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Anonymous

What shank do I need to use to install this on a 3" tower? The Intertap brand is incompatible.

MoreCoffee!

I had the same problem. Oddly I used an older version of the inter tap faucet and it worked. The inter tap shank was purchased in 2018. For reference it will be the shank that has the welded coupling sleeve. The only issue I found was that you have to really tighten the hell out of the shank coupling nut. . Don’t buy the Krome brand shanks those aren’t compatible at all. I hope this helps.